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April 1998 Volume 21, Issue 4

Brewpub Review

Sacramento Brewing Company

by Bryan Gros

 

On our way skiing last month, Lisa and I stopped at the Sacramento Brewing Co. It is very convenient for travel to Tahoe, since it is right off of Business 80--great whether you're headed up I80 or Hwy 50.

And this place is worth a stop. There is a very large bar area, which was packed and noisy on a Friday evening. The dinner menu had a nice variety of original dishes at medium prices, and it changes often. The wine list was short, but the selections were quite reasonably priced. I liked the selection of three ports and several dessert wines. But if you stop for the beers, you'll be fine with a choice of eight, spanning the range of styles.

The menu offered eight appetizers from baked brie, calamari with lemon aioli, German sausages with red cabbage to a bread and cheese board. The salad selections were imaginative from the perennial Caesar to a Thai chicken salad to apple, walnut and gorgonzola salad. I felt like ordering a pizza, and chose the wild mushroom, caramelized onion and pepperoni pizza over the honey ham, sun dried tomato and gorgonzola. The entrees included Grilled Mahi Mahi with vegetables over chow mein noodles with a light Thai curry sauce; clams in a Vietnamese garlic and chili broth over capellini noodles; two pork chops stuffed with a sage walnut stuffing; tequila marinated ribeye steak; and oatmeal stout roast chicken. Lisa got linguine with oyster, shitake and crimini mushrooms and caramelized onions. My pizza was great, with a thin crisp crust, but chewy in the middle. Lisa's dish, however, was too heavy--it needed something to cut the richness of the light cream sauce and mushrooms.

To start, they were out of their regular Miner's Golden Ale and had a Bohemian Pilsner instead. This beer was sweet initially, but had a crisp, bitter finish. A green olive aroma, however, detracted from the beer. Seemed like it might have been young. The Hefeweizen was very nice, however. A deep golden color with some haze, this beer had a great balance of clove and banana and wheat flavors. The residual sweetness was balanced by a slight citric character that added to the complexity. I'd get more of this in the summer.

Two more selections had poorly descriptive names. The Red Horse ale and the Irish Red ale left the customer wondering what they would be like--or how they were different. (The former is a regular offering). The Red Horse was "aggressively dry hopped", and the hops were certainly evident along with a real estery nose. This beer also had a grainy maltiness, amply hop flavor, and a dry bitter finish. It had a few rough edges, but was a very enjoyable beer. I didn't care for the Irish Red, though. Alcohol was evident, as well as grainy and roasted malt flavors. The dry finish didn't help on this beer.

A British Pale Ale, another brewer special, lived up to its name. Faint malt and hop aroma gave way to a balanced beer with a mild finish. The Brown ale was a good Northern English Brown ale--light bodied and easy drinking. The IPA was an American version with good Cascade aroma, a light amber hue, and a good malt backbone to support the bitterness. Another good choice on a summer day (if you don't have too far to drive).

For dessert, you could choose from the Scotch ale or the Imperial Stout (another special, replacing the regular Oatmeal Stout). The Scotch was sweet, with a good grainy flavor and possibly a hint of peat smoked malt. The malt flavors were nice, but the body could have been a bit higher. The stout was a big beer, as expected. Very roasty and coffee like, with alcohol flavor and a bitter finish. Again, I expected a little more body.

We were impressed at both the selection of beers as well as the way they all distinguished themselves. Some pubs, especially in the South, offer beers that look different, but end up all tasting the same. The only complaint I had was that the beers all tended to start out big and sweet, but had a dry finish that left you wanting a bit more. They were also served too cold.

This place is behind a shopping center, so don't drive by it like I did. They're coming up on their second anniversary in June, and I would expect them to be around for a while.

 

Updated: April 12, 1998.